Let us start by acknowledging the fact that all surfers experience failure and plateau. It’s not a question of if, but when. Surfing has a steep learning curve when compared to other sports because deliberate practice is difficult to achieve in the unpredictable ocean, and although some effective alternative forms of practice do exist, such as surfing in a wave pool or dry-land surfing on a carver skateboard, there is nothing that can replace the experience of surfing in the ocean. 

In order to see improvement in your surfing ability, you first have to be willing to make mistakes—to fall over and over again. The important thing to remember is that falling is normal. You have to get right back on the horse when it bucks you off. Being able to deal with failure effectively will determine how quickly you progress as a surfer, so here are a few tips on forging mental toughness. 

Manage your expectations

The key to managing your own expectations is to be realistic about your ability level. Although it's easier said than done, try not to measure yourself against other surfers. Each surfer has their own unique style, board preference, wave preference, and so on. Rather than emulating your favorite pro surfer, find what you are naturally drawn to or good at, and stick with that. 

Maintain a “growth mindset”

According to Stanford University psychologist Carol S. Dweck, “success in school, work, sports, the arts, and almost every area of human endeavor can be dramatically influenced by how we think about our talents and abilities.” In her book Mindset: The New Psychology of Success, Dweck highlights the key differences between the fixed and growth mindset:

A fixed mindset is based on the assumption that our character, intelligence, and creative abilities are static givens which we cannot change. This mindset leads to a desire to look smart and a tendency to avoid challenges, give up easily, see effort as fruitless, ignore useful negative feedback, and feel threatened by the success of others.

A growth mindset, on the other hand, is based on a passion for learning rather than a hunger for approval. This mindset leads to a desire to learn and a tendency to embrace new challenges, persist in the face of setbacks, see effort as the path to mastery, learn from criticism, and find inspiration from the success of others.

When faced with a new opportunity like learning how to surf, a person with a fixed mindset might say: “I’m not going to be naturally good at that, so I’ll spare myself the embarrassment of trying.” This person doesn’t want to look or feel inept, so they avoid the challenge altogether to protect their ego. However, Dweck argues that we should avoid falling into this trap of fixed stagnation by developing a growth mindset and pushing beyond our comfort zone, while keeping in mind that failure is a necessary part of the learning process and will eventually lead to growth.

Express gratitude (even when the conditions are poor)

The ancient Hawaiians used to chant songs to bring up the surf and always made sure to express gratitude before entering the ocean. Personally, I like to submerge my face under water and say “thank you” before each paddle out. Paying respect to the ocean is an effective way to clear your mind before a session and remind yourself to have fun! The goal of surfing is not to control or dominate the wave, but to become one with it. Maintaining an attitude of gratitude can certainly help with that.